Adventures in Incompetence - Woodworking Edition

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Ok so I've seen all these cool gaming tables and I decided it's time to try building one. Now I have virtually no experience with this stuff. Over the years ivI' purchased the tools at yard sales or discounts etc so I have those but I've never really used them. Time to fix that.

O thought I'd start with something easy. Take a 40" HD LCD TV and wrap it in a wood case. Sounds simple. Just remove the plastic from the TV, cut a few 45 degree mitres and glue/nail it together. What could go wrong? Well first it really helps if you have properly aligned your mitre saw.
A mitre cut is just an angled cut. In my case I'm taking a 1" x 6" board laying it on the wide part and cutting a 45 degree angle into it. Easy peasy. Now if you want it to fit together make sure it makes straight cuts at 90 degrees or you get what I have which is 45 degree cuts that are just slightly not perpendicular to the flat of the board. That's great if you want to make a funky trapazoidal box I guess but what it left me with is big gaps because the wood couldn't squeeze the metal tv frame so it could mate up approximately nicely. Oh well I have a lot of nails and this is just my prototype. Ok next time tune of the saw to cut straight or get a new saw. This ones from Harbor Freight which is basically like saying it's from the back if a truck I China made by the cheapest factory in China. I think you can guess the quality.

Ok we have something like a box. It almost looks pretty from a few feet or a few beers away. Now I want the tv to rest level with the box. That could be tricky because I'm not 100% sure the box is level but I put the tv face down on a flat surface, put the box around it and cut a few support pieces to keep the the from falling when I flip it over. This went on without a hitch. Now it would be nice if I could tilt the tv and frame without the tv falling out. Also I want everything to be flat up top so no clips or trim up top to hold it in. Why you might ask. Because I have to put something clear over the top of the tv to keep the LCD from getting scratches but every millimeter beyond zero leaves a gap between the LCD and anything resting on the clear surface.

I want to use this for either playing face to face RPGs using Fantasy Grounds somehow projected on to the TV. If a miniature is placed on the above mentioned clear surface it floating above the map on the TV. This is a problem because if you look at it from an angle it makes it hard to see where the mini actually is. So getting as close as possible to zero is good.
I also want to be able to use this for projecting Vassal games on the TV. Vassel is a fairly universal program for playing board games. It's almost the opposite of FG in that it for most games does no automation and or rules enforcement. But it's good.
So back to how to keep the tv falling out. This particular old LCD TV has what turn out to be great recessed mounting holes in the corners. I just cut some blocks to go in back and scew it into the blocks. That was nice.

Ok now I have some cord management issues. Ultimately this is less of an issue if I put this into the table vs on top since it's all hidden. Right now I'm dealing with a power cord, a Chromecast power cord and a Fire stick power cord. The Chromecast is because to turns out I can cast my desktop to TV. What I'll probably do here is have a laptop set up as a player casting it's desktop to the tv and a separate laptop running as GM.

So to have the tv w case lay flat I drill a hole slightly larger than the power cord plug and run it through. Then I have some old cord friendly staples I can use to route the cords.

Last but not least I need to be able to turn on the TV. I got the crappy cheap route and just mount the IR sensor behind the hole for the power cables. It's awkward but I don't expect to do much beyond turn on and off the TV so it's not a big deal.

Here's some pics of the result.
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Maybe this is a stupid question, but...what is the TV in the table for?
 
Looks good so far. I'd look into HDMI extension cables so you can locate the physical ports somewhere you have easy access to, if you need to change the connected devices for any reason.

I'd guess you would want some sort of perspex or similar material for the cover, tempered glass would be ideal but you may not be able to get it thin enough for what you need. Design defensively, so that when someone accidentally spills drinks on the table, they can't get to the electronics in the TV.
 
Maybe this is a stupid question, but...what is the TV in the table for?
Vassal and Fantasy Grounds for map display. If I can get Chromecast working in the office I'll post some pictures.
 
Looks good so far. I'd look into HDMI extension cables so you can locate the physical ports somewhere you have easy access to, if you need to change the connected devices for any reason.

I'd guess you would want some sort of perspex or similar material for the cover, tempered glass would be ideal but you may not be able to get it thin enough for what you need. Design defensively, so that when someone accidentally spills drinks on the table, they can't get to the electronics in the TV.
Yeah I need some plexi at some point. I could add a liquid catch but honestly I've never had a drink spilled.
 
Just one thing. This is a 40" HD TV. Ultimately I'd like to use a 4K tv and I'm still not sure the ideal size.
 
Just one thing. This is a 40" HD TV. Ultimately I'd like to use a 4K tv and I'm still not sure the ideal size.

If you insist on 4K, use a 60" or bigger television or its pointless.
 
If you insist on 4K, use a 60" or bigger television or its pointless.
Why do you say that? 60" seems like it might be pushing the upper bounds of what table would fit in the room I'm planning to put it in.
 
Why do you say that? 60" seems like it might be pushing the upper bounds of what table would fit in the room I'm planning to put it in.

Because with a television smaller than 60", you have to be at most two (for a 35" screen) to three feet (for a 55" screen) away from it to be able to tell any difference between 1080p and 4K. So unless you try to push your head down close, not worth it.

Now, that's resolution. If you want HDR and the 10-bit color gamut that comes with 4K, that's a different story.
 
Because with a television smaller than 60", you have to be at most two (for a 35" screen) to three feet (for a 55" screen) away from it to be able to tell any difference between 1080p and 4K. So unless you try to push your head down close, not worth it.

Now, that's resolution. If you want HDR and the 10-bit color gamut that comes with 4K, that's a different story.
This is going to be inset into a table people are sitting at. So you will be 2-3 feet or so from the table.
 
When you say virtually no experience did you not even take wood-working in high school?

My Dad was a carpenter so I love this kind of work, I spent some summers as a teen working for him on worksites, and hope to do more woodwork later in life, perhaps when I inherit some of his great shop tools.

I was pretty stoked when I just crafted this dice tray using a picture frame based on this Youtube video:



Course now I can’t find my dice tray as it is buried in some box from our last move.
 
I took one semester of woodshop in junior high and one semester of metal shop. I also took a year of auto shop and a summer school of diesel mechanics.
 
IMG_20190801_140950-01.png
IMG_20190801_140828-01.png

Haven't updated in a while. Table is mostly done. It's not pretty but I think it's going to be very functional. I still need to add the electrical for the tv plug-in and outlets for laptops etc. It needs staining and I need to decide if I'm going to add cup holders in the corner.
 
It looks nice, it is very easy to be critical of your own work, particularly when working on something practical like a workbench or working table. It doesn't make sense to put a huge amount of finishing into a table that will suffer the abuses of gaming.

For cup holders, what about something that adds to the outside, rather than taking space away from the table top? Maybe fastened to the underside of the perimeter which would also keep drinks lower and less likely to result in spills onto the table top. From the underside you might be able to make them swing under to save space when not being used.


It could very well be an optical illusion making the legs look to be much closer to the center than they are, but it looks like it might be tippy if a player leaned on the edge or a corner. My general rule of thumb when designing a table or bench is that I can stand or sit on it, as invariably at some point somebody will regardless of how inappropriate that may be.
 
The table is 85" long and the legs are 25" in from the long side. It's disassembled at the moment so don't know how bad that loft would be.

For comparison my dining room table is 97" long with legs 22" in from the edge. Sitting a 200lbs man(me) doesn't lift the table.

My game room table is 77" long with legs 26" in from the end. Sitting me on the end lifts it with relative ease.

You're suggestion is a good one but it hasn't ever happened to me gaming on my current table in 16 years I've owned it. Inserting it gives more legroom. For now I think I'm going to take that trade-off but I'll keep your observation in mind.
 
It must just be the angle of the photo. It looks like the legs create a much smaller foot print than what you are describing.
 
Hmm. Staining did not go well. Apparently I forgot to use a stainable wood putty. That and I probably should have sanded much more. I got in a hurry and now it's really showing. I'm not concerned with the plywood base because that will be covered but even having applied a prestain the whole thing looks a bit meh. I may have to go with paint. IMG_20190805_122118-01.jpeg
 
That is kind of a bummer, but it happens. Stains can highlight any blemishes so can be really hard to pull off on a large piece.

I built a display case a few years ago, used higher end wood (more expensive) than really necessary and stained it a nice dark oak color which was a lot more work. The idea was to show my wife a display case could look good in the general area of the house, not just my nerd space. Her response was, that looks nice, but painted white would be fine with me. :shock: :errr: :trigger:

Oh well, next one is going to be painted white, save me a lot of time, effort and money. Well at least she is easy to please.


If you go with paint make sure you use a good stain blocking primer particularly if you use a light color or white. I find BIN primer works pretty well, and it is fairly inexpensive.
 
That is kind of a bummer, but it happens. Stains can highlight any blemishes so can be really hard to pull off on a large piece.

I built a display case a few years ago, used higher end wood (more expensive) than really necessary and stained it a nice dark oak color which was a lot more work. The idea was to show my wife a display case could look good in the general area of the house, not just my nerd space. Her response was, that looks nice, but painted white would be fine with me. :shock: :errr: :trigger:

Oh well, next one is going to be painted white, save me a lot of time, effort and money. Well at least she is easy to please.


If you go with paint make sure you use a good stain blocking primer particularly if you use a light color or white. I find BIN primer works pretty well, and it is fairly inexpensive.
I think I'll paint it black. My plan is to sand with 180 grit paper, wipe, prime, paint.

Would you put polyurethane on after that? That was my plan with the stain but I'm not as sure with paint.
 


:smile:


No I don't put anything over the paint.

It is a hassle, smelly and takes a long time to dry but oil based enamel or lacquer paints are harder and tend to have a better finish. Latex paints are soft and feel a little sticky with weight applied, as with shelves, but might be fine on a table.
 


:smile:


No I don't put anything over the paint.

It is a hassle, smelly and takes a long time to dry but oil based enamel or lacquer paints are harder and tend to have a better finish. Latex paints are soft and feel a little sticky with weight applied, as with shelves, but might be fine on a table.

Wife has nixed oil based anything due to odor. She has a superior smeller and I don't have any desire to hear the complaints from prolonged oil paint smell. I'm either going to sand the putty down and try putting an extra thick coat of stair on it or try something like a whitewash/blackwash of heavily thinned laytex paint over it. We did that with some barnwood we have to good effect.

Maybe go with a super dark stain to see what I can mask.
 
Wife has nixed oil based anything due to odor. She has a superior smeller and I don't have any desire to hear the complaints from prolonged oil paint smell. I'm either going to sand the putty down and try putting an extra thick coat of stair on it or try something like a whitewash/blackwash of heavily thinned laytex paint over it. We did that with some barnwood we have to good effect.

Maybe go with a super dark stain to see what I can mask.

I think they have some additives that can harden latex paints. Mostly I just hate painting shelves with latex paint because books and other heavy items tend to feel like they are sticking. They don't really stick, but they do if that makes sense. :hmmm:

I love latex paints for everything else and it might not even be an issue on a table.
 
I think they have some additives that can harden latex paints. Mostly I just hate painting shelves with latex paint because books and other heavy items tend to feel like they are sticking. They don't really stick, but they do if that makes sense. :hmmm:

I love latex paints for everything else and it might not even be an issue on a table.
I'm with you on latex feeling grippy. Our kitchen cabinets are painted with latex and they have that grippy feel. Especially when warm. Heavy things pressed up against them too long can pull paint.
 
I'm with you on latex feeling grippy. Our kitchen cabinets are painted with latex and they have that grippy feel. Especially when warm. Heavy things pressed up against them too long can pull paint.

Yep, you know then.
 
Some pictures in the game room/office
IMG_20190808_151011-01.jpeg
With the vault showing and various grid mats on it.IMG_20190808_151056-01.jpeg
Showing vault with tv and softmats around tv.IMG_20190808_151819-01.jpeg
Vault sealed and giant vinyl Ptolus map over coverboards. Boards Haven't been stained yet.

Still needs to be sealed but I wanted to see it in the space.
 
Oh, my wife would kill me if I tried anything like that.

Jealous!
 
Oh, my wife would kill me if I tried anything like that.

Jealous!
I bought the house while we were dating still. She picked the general area and I had two requirements. 1) waterfront. 2) my own office that I was not going to share.

Requirement #1 she's pretty happy I insisted on. #2 still annoys her to this day and and attempts renegotiation. I relented when the first two boys were under two but once they moved out I've hung to the not sharing requirement. Mostly. The boys are getting into games and I'm occasionally losing it to them but I'm ok with that. Mostly because what I don't want is to hear is how the office needs to be cleaned up, can't you get rid of some of this etc. I never hear those things from the boys.
 
How does having the sunken map area work in practice? It doesn’t look like it leaves a lot of room for books or laptops or whatever for the people around the table.
 
How does having the sunken map area work in practice? It doesn’t look like it leaves a lot of room for books or laptops or whatever for the people around the table.
Not sure. Just finished the table so the first live test will be Thursday at the earliest. I'll try setting up a laptop, iPad , AD&D book etc for a visual idea
 
Awesome. I love the idea of the sunken map area, I just don’t know how well it would work. It just looks so elegant to me when I see pictures of people’s purpose built gaming tables.
 
Awesome. I love the idea of the sunken map area, I just don’t know how well it would work. It just looks so elegant to me when I see pictures of people’s purpose built gaming tables.
Well one of the main reasons I did it was to enable longer games or longer solo games to be played. I can do my thing in the vault and then cover it up for having guests come and play. My gaming group has irregular participant attendance. Players A,L,J2 and I will play long wargames. Players C,J1 & K only play Euros and card games. We all are old with kids and things to get up for so everyone turns into a pumpkin about 11ish. We start at 8ish so most of the time we just don't do wargamish games. I'm hoping the table will change that.
 
Photos from GM side and player side. Note I'm in the middle of updating Fantasy Grounds so I can't show you minis on a TV screen right now.IMG_20190831_220757-01.jpegIMG_20190831_220827-01.jpeg
Right now you can see about a third of the tv peaking out.
 
Well one of the main reasons I did it was to enable longer games or longer solo games to be played. I can do my thing in the vault and then cover it up for having guests come and play. My gaming group has irregular participant attendance. Players A,L,J2 and I will play long wargames. Players C,J1 & K only play Euros and card games. We all are old with kids and things to get up for so everyone turns into a pumpkin about 11ish. We start at 8ish so most of the time we just don't do wargamish games. I'm hoping the table will change that.
I hear that. My old guy eyes start to get pretty heavy by 10.
 
OMG I would be in heaven with that gaming table !!!
Great work Bunch Bunch! :thumbsup:
 
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For this:

Note there are wierd wavey lines in one of the OGRE images that are not visible in person.
View attachment 4913
They're interference patterns between the pixels on the TV and the pixels on the camera. Anything where you're imaging something with a grid through another grid such as pixels on a camera sensor can generate interference patterns like this. They're called moire effects.
 
To anyone reading. I think I'd try going with the higher resolution 4k tv.
 
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